Luring 101

     Luring is when we take a treat to the dog's nose and guide them into a position that we want them in, and as soon as they are doing what we want, the dog gets the treat.  Now, I know a lot of you out there have several concerns about this concept:  1) my dog will get too fat, 2) That means I'll always have to use the lure, 3) physically putting him into position works, so why can't I just do that?  And please if there are more out there please let me know and I'll address them as well, these are just the few common ones that seem to keep cropping up.

     

     First, your dog will not get too fat.  Here's why.  At home, unless doing the DROP which you will use tasty treats, you will use your dog's food.  You will be feeding your dog less of his kibble than what he usually gets, and use the remaining for training.  If you use raw food to feed your dog, just switch to the freeze-dried raw food patties for one of the meals, and give slightly less than recommended for feeding, while using the rest for training.  Now, when your outside and working with your dog, will kibble work? Probably not, use the treats for those times.  Having the dog work on an empty stomach helps too.  Train before you feed the meals, not after.  Your dog will be hungry and will want to find out what he has to do to get that food!!

      Second, you will not have to always use the lure.  This is how to fade away the lure.  Let's say your teaching Fido to sit.  You start off by placing the food directly on his nose.  Start moving your hand up, while keeping the treat attached to Fido's nose.  His head goes up, butt goes down, and boom he gets the treat.  This would be repeated several times with food in your hand until he sat immediately each and every time for at least 10 times in a row.    Notice, I didn't say SIT.  There is no point in me saying SIT when he doesn't even know the word.  Teach the behavior, then the word.  Much easier and less frustrating for both you and your dog.  Now that Fido is sitting each and every time, repeat the above without the food in your hand.  Have the food in your pocket.  As soon as his butt hits the floor, simultaneously say SIT, and reach into your pocket and give him a treat.  After repeating without the food in your hand and getting a successful sit 10 times in a row, your hand signal will be a palm-up, upward motion with your hand.  This also helps you from having to keep your hand attached to Fido's nose.  I would not attempt to intermittently reward right away because you want that behavior solid.  Intermittent rewarding should only start after several weeks and should not be done too often.  Besides, would you work for free all the time?

      Third; physically putting Fido into position.  Why I'm not a fan of this.  Has anyone, say your parents, made you sit down by physically pushing down on your shoulders?  Doesn't feel good, and I bet you got a little nervous, maybe even scared.  Fido feels the same way, and  besides, it's just plain rude.  This does not help to build a relationship that your dog can trust.  Tell me, if someone wanted you to do something, which way would make you feel good inside; being forced into it, or being coaxed with a reward?

We talked about resorce guarding, but one sub-category that I would like to delve into next week is food guarding, which can be a very dangerous problem for both your dog.  Until then, "I think dogs are the most amazing creatures; they give unconditional love.  For me they are the role model for being alive."  ~Gilda Radner