Sunday, December 5, 2010

Resource Guarding 101

     So Last week we talked about chewing.  I had mentioned that, unless absolutely necessary, not to pull anything out of your dogs mouth.  Two reasons, one it could lead to an expensive vet bill, and second; a bite from your beloved pet.  Notice I said COULD, but I don't like to play rush and roulette, so, I look at these as my only outcomes.  
    Let me explain how and why the two above scenarios come about.  First, let me leave your favorite desert out.  But there are two things;  one it's not for you, and two, you don't know it's not for you because you don't speak English.  The desert is, let's say, your shoes for the dog and chocolate cake for us.  So, chocolate cake is available at all times (remember, so are your shoes; otherwise you wouldn't be reading this and I wouldn't need to blog about this :) ) and every time you start eating the cake I come by and snatch it away, and I keep doing it; day, after day, after day.  Eventually, you'll get mad, or you'll try eating it a lot faster so I can't take it away, right?  Your dog/puppy does the same thing.  She thinks, "Oh boy, I better hurry up and swallow that nice fluffy tug toy (a sock), before dad comes and snatches it!"  And now we get a nice vet bill because our little puppy can't poop.  Worst case scenario, your puppy/dog thinks, "There is no way in heck I'm giving this up, it's mine!!"  This last scenario leads to something called resource guarding, which is anything the dog deems valuable and will fight to keep it.  If you are lucky, your dog will give you some warning, such as she stops chewing and gives a hard, still stare as she slightly leans her head over her possession.  Other warnings include showing teeth and growling, and air snapping; where the dog appears to bite the air.  If your dog is displaying any of these signs, call your vet to direct you to a trainer.  PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE do not let this go, and for heaven's sake do not use harsh methods, such as putting dogs into a submissive roll, or pinning the dogs down,  it will only make it worse.  In the meantime, respect your dog, and be grateful she is giving you warnings, because the next thing that may happen if you don't listen, is a bite.  Don't panic either, chances are she won't bite;  if you don't snatch what she's got away from her.
     When we do exchange inappropriate objects for appropriate ones, make sure the one you are giving has more value than the one you are taking away.   Again, get advice from a trainer that can work with you if your dog/puppy is showing any problems with resource guarding.  For those of you who aren't having problems and want to prevent the problems; here is what you need to work on.
     It is easier to exchange  what the puppy is chewing on for food.  When I say food, I don't mean dry kibble, I mean string cheese, hot dogs, tasty dog treats such as freeze-dried liver, or left over chicken (without the bone).  Yes this is all ok, I will be talking about nutrition in a future blog.  First we must perfect this with a toy that she plays with; I like to use the tug toy.  While you are playing tug, make sure you hold on to the toy and offer her the piece of hot dog (or other tasty treat) with your other hand and place the treat right to her nose.  Hold on to the treat until she lets go of the toy.  Once she spits the toy out immediately give her the treat.  After doing this several times, she will start automatically spitting out the object for the treat.  Now you can add the command DROP.  While she is holding on to the tug toy, bring the treat to her nose, say DROP simultaneously, wait for her to spit out the object and give her the treat.
     Next week I will talk about luring, using a treat  to guide the dog into what we are trying to have them do.  This is what we did for the drop.  I will also give tips on how to fade away, or not use, the lure.  Until then, "Scratch a dog and you'll find a permanent job." - Franklin P Jones

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